Life is a Ride…In Sheffield
January 18, 2011 5 Comments
Following my equestrian trail-riding week in Germany, I flew from Frankfurt to the North of England to see John Simm in Hamlet, meet up with friends, and do some sight-seeing in and around Sheffield. This is pretty much the same thing I said when questioned by the UK Border officer upon my arrival at Manchester Airport.
“Where are you staying while in the UK?”, he asked. “In Sheffield”, I reply.
“Do you have friends or family there?”
“Yes, friends.”
“And what will you be doing in Sheffield?” he further probes. “Going to the theatre and doing some sight-seeing” I say, beginning to wonder how much longer this will go on.
Then he asks, “Oh, what are you seeing at the Theatre?”
“John Simm in Hamlet”, I reply confidently, remembering that I was back in a place where people would know exactly who I was talking about.
“John Simm?”, he says, “I like him”.
And I was waved on through into the UK! 
Yippee!
But before I could leave Manchester Airport, I needed to pick up my next Ride for the week, a silver NEW manual drive Astra SRi with 7K miles. I forgot to take a picture of it, probably subconsciously not wanting to jinx myself into wrecking it since this was my first time driving in England! Instead, I found this lovely promo shot of an Astra SRi:
Astra SRi
After 5 minutes sitting in the right-hand side driver’s seat at the Hertz car park, wondering why I ever thought driving in the UK was a great idea and trying to quell my panic, I finally started the car, played with the left-hand manual shift and pulled out of the parking space. So far, so good. I inched my way down the car park ramps and ultimately exited (stay to the left!) into the 6:00 pm rush hour mayhem of Manchester traffic. Let the fun begin!
With iPhone GPS at the ready and gingerly avoiding side-swiping parked cars or bicyclists with my unfamiliar 2 foot of car extended on my left, I skirted around Manchester Central and headed (in a more or less “general” direction) on the M60 and M67 until I reached the A57. The A57 which I later find out is also called “Snake Pass“. HAHA I am SOOO glad I didn’t know this beforehand! Snake pass is fairly narrow and winding in parts and I was still concentrating like hell on driving, but as dusk was falling I managed to glimpse some of the surrounding views of the beautiful Peak District. Here’s a pic I found:
Throughout this blog, click on the photos for a bigger image
Snake Pass in the Peak District
It was dark when I got to Sheffield and I needed to reach (in a more or less “general” direction) the Travelodge Sheffield Central, which is accessed via the Park Square Ring Road. Well, it took me 3-4 attempts of selecting the wrong exit each time, spinning off onto a new tangent road and working my way back to the Ring Road to try again. Fortunately I never found myself endlessly stuck in the roundabout like Chevy Chase in this classic London scene from National Lampoon’s European Vacation:
Whew! I’d actually made it to my Hotel with me and my Ass-tra in one piece! I got settled in, devoured a meal and a pint of beer at the hotel Bar Cafe and reflected back on my day’s travel from Molsberg, Germany to Sheffield, UK. I slept like a log that night!
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Next morning the agenda was laundry. I pondered if I was ready to get back in the car so soon after the night before and weighed the need to drive around Sheffield vs. having fresh clothes for the rest of the week. I already had the laundry shop mapped out, and so how hard could it be to go a couple miles through Sheffield? I mean, I had 30 years experience driving in the greater Los Angeles area…so what if it’s all backwards now, I could manage?!?
Well, a few wrong turns, U-turns and dead-ends later, I find myself…totally by sheer luck, conveniently parked at a side street located just behind Churchills Dry Cleaning & Laundry Service. I couldn’t have found a better place to leave the car for a few hours while I had my laundry cleaned, plus do my first bit of sight-seeing in Sheffield Central. The rest of the pics in this blog are from my camera.
Barker's Pool, Sheffield
Heart of the City, Sheffield
The Peace Gardens and Sheffield Town Hall
The Wheel of Sheffield
Sheffield Winter Garden
Inside Sheffield Winter Garden
View between Hotel Novotel Sheffield Centre and Sheffield Piccolino near The Winter Garden
Steel balls with flowing water public art in Sheffield
The 'Cheese Grater' car park
"Barking up the right tree" by Johnny White at Millennium Galleries
The Town Trust Bells at Millennium Galleries
"Blue Bird' - Stairwell in Graves Art Gallery and Sheffield Central Library
While wandering I enjoyed my first meat and potato pie since my 2007 Manchester trip. Ahhhh!! So Fantastic! Here’s a picture perfect example of a meat and potato pie. Gosh, I’m craving one again seeing the pic!
Few hours later, the laundry is done, sight-seeing is over and it’s time to meet up with friends for a highly anticipated evening of Hamlet with John Simm at the Crucible Theatre!
The Crucible Theatre at Tudor Square, Sheffield
See more Sheffield, UK 2010 photos
Chris, Lisa & Mitch, and I head over early to stake out a table at the Old Monk Pub in Tudor Square, which is home to the largest concentration of theatre venues in the UK outside London. There might’ve been a photo of us in front of the Old Monk Pub, if it weren’t for Mitch discovering a better photo opportunity using the adjacent Crucible Corner restaurant in order to include John Simm in the background (having a quiet dinner before his performance).
(click on photo for bigger view)
Crucible Corner Restaurant with John Simm at Tudor Square, Sheffield
And so…back at The Old Monk…
The Old Monk Pub at Tudor Square, Sheffield
…we were soon joined by Sue, Yvonne, Linz, Cath, Charles…
Pre Hamlet meet-up at The Old Monk, Sheffield
…and Bex.
Pre Hamlet meet-up at The Old Monk, Sheffield
Tracey, who I last met in 2007 in London, was also driving up to join us for Hamlet, but sadly didn’t make it because her car broke down in route. 
John Simm gave a stunning performance as Hamlet and I was immediately looking forward to returning the very next evening to witness the extra exhilaration of Opening Press Night! I am still so very thrilled for every opportunity to see John live on stage and feel quite spoiled to have seen his last three plays. Afterwards at the stage door, John was fabulously generous and down to earth as always. I feel blessed being able to meet such a fine talent and really appreciate the personal care and attention he gives towards fans.
But not only that, the man takes a Seriously-Damn-Fine-Smiley photo!
Shelley & Chris with John Simm after Hamlet (Crucible Theatre - 21 Sep 2010)
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The next day, Lisa & Mitch and I take a half-day trip by bus (I wasn’t ready to include passengers in my England driving adventures) to the nearby village of Eyam. Also known as the “Plague Village”, Eyam chose to isolate itself when the plague was discovered there in August 1665, rather than let the infection spread.
We took a walking self-guided tour of the town:
The illustrated map of the Derbyshire village of Eyam
The main street of Eyam maintains the original row of cottages that still serve as modern day residences today. Each cottage has a sign in the front for visitors to learn more about the historical victims:
Sign for the Plague Cottages - The third victim of the Plague Peter Halksworth died here.
Gardens of Eyam Village
Hall Hill Troughs - est. 1558. They supplied regular domestic water for nearly 350 years
Eyam Hall - 17th C. Family Manor House & Historic Walled Garden
Eyam Church Cemetery
Eyam Church Cemetery
Tomb of Catherine Mompesson, who died of the plague 25 Aug 1666
Celtic Cross - 8th Century A.D., Eyam
See more The Plague Village – Eyam, UK 2010 photos
After the tour, we stopped for lunch at The Miners Arms 17 C. Inn & Restaurant, plus B&B, where they have a list of all 27 Past Innkeepers dating back to 1630. Whoa!
Here’s a nifty little video by Peakdistrictonline that highlights perfectly what you can expect to see if you visit Eyam.
The history of Eyam is a very intriguing, thought-provoking study of human behavior and sacrifice, science and biology, population statistics, immunity and genealogy. I highly recommend a visit there!
Mitch, Lisa and I catch the bus back to Sheffield and get ready for Hamlet’s Opening Press Night!
Crucible Theatre at Tudor Square, Sheffield
This time Chris, Yvonne, Lisa and I were joined by Tracy (not the same Tracey whose car had broken down the night before) for the Premiere evening. There we saw a number of John’s peers, friends and family also in attendance, including Sir Ian McKellen, Frances Barber, Adrian Bower, Joe Duttine, Jason Merrels, Adam James, Siobhan Redmond, and John’s wife, actress Kate Magowan.
We were treated to an even more highly charged performance than the previous night by John Simm and Company. And on that note, Congratulations and Good luck to the entire Hamlet Sheffield Theatres Production on being nominated “Best Regional Production” in the 2011 What’s On Stage Awards!
Voting is still open until the end of January, ~please~ vote NOW for Hamlet as Best Regional Production.
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After staying three nights at the Travelodge Sheffield Central at the low budget rate of £19.00 a night and although I had no complaints at that price, I was beyond ready to splurge on something a little more swanky. Some place where the bar soap couldn’t be mistaken for a small wrapped mint.
I threw my luggage into my trusty Astra ride and drove a couple miles south to the Copthorne Hotel next to Sheffield United Football Club‘s stadium:
Copthorne Hotel next to Sheffield United Football Club’s stadium
But before checking into my new posh digs, I took a walk to the nearby shops on The Moor and stopped at the Sainsbury’s Superstore to pick up my other “Must-Have-When-in-the-North-of-England” food, my all-time favorite cheese…Lancashire Cheese.
At the registers, the checkout lady picked up on my American accent and asked about my visit and what I had done so far in Sheffield. When I told her about seeing John Simm in Hamlet, she surprised me (but then, why?) by saying she’d been to see Hamlet, too. Wow, how cool! I could see I still wasn’t entirely used to being in a place where people knew exactly who I was talking about, let alone equally contributing to the moment!
I walked out of Sainsbury’s feeling curiously uplifted…and into…an unanticipated downpour of rain.
The Moor Sheffield
Now, I DO love the rain. But with no coat, hat, or umbrella I quickly turned into a drowned rat carrying orange grocery bags as I walked back to the Copthorne. I tried to look like I purposely intended to be dripping wet as I checked-in at the trendy Reception desk.
Once in my room, I reveled in beautiful blacks, creams and dark wood accommodations, with executive closets, accent lighting, luxury bathroom with heated mirror, club chair, desk, a small fridge and a recessed wall-mounted flat screen TV. There could be no better way to spend my last 3 nights in Sheffield!
That night I ate Lancashire cheese on buttered Jacob’s Cream Crackers and perused tourist pamphlets for ideas on what to sight-see over the next couple days.
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Since one of my primary reasons for hiring a car in England was to drive through the countryside, I decided to go for a nice easy drive south to the Masson Mills Working Textile Museum in Matlock Bath, Derbyshire. Masson Mills, built in 1783 as the showpiece mills of Sir Richard Arkwright, is magnificently situated on the banks of the River Derwent.
Masson Mills – Working Textile Museum
Besides being a Working Textile Museum, Masson Mills is also a Shopping Village with four floors of shopping and a cafe, too. I took a self-guided tour inside the Museum which included the following caution:
Masson Mills Working Textile Museum contains working machinery and it is recommended that you do not remain in the areas where machines are working for longer than 15 minutes in total. The Textile Museum Staff have earplugs which are available for your use.
Here’s a video comprised of 3 short clips I took to illustrate the museum and what it sounds like:
And now for some quiet pics! 
Doubling Machine
Warping Mill - Circa 1890, made by W. Whiteley & Sons of Lockwood, Huddersfield.
Lancashire and Yorkshire looms, weaving traditional cloth.
Weaving Shed
Masson Mills - Working Textile Museum
Masson Mills - Working Textile Museum
Masson Mills - Working Textile Museum
Masson Mills - Working Textile Museum
A short distance south of Masson Mills lies Arkwright’s Cromford Mill – the world’s first successful water-powered cotton spinning mills. The complex was saved from dereliction in the 1970′s and is currently undergoing painstaking restoration.
I stopped in to have a look around and visit the exhibition and gift shop, but I was much more delighted by the sights as I strolled along the Cromford Canal:
Cromford Wharf
(Remember – click on photos for bigger view!)
Quack Security Patrol - Cromford Canal Walk
Cromford Canal Walk
Cromford Canal Walk
Cromford Canal Walk
Cromford Canal Walk
See more Masson Mills & Cromford Mills, Wharf & Canal, UK photos
I didn’t have enough time to complete the 3.5 mile Cromford Canal Walk, but I hope to someday!
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For my last full day in the UK, I decided on another short easy drive south to Hardwick Hall in Chesterfield, Derbyshire. Hardwick Hall is one of Britain’s greatest Elizabethan houses and was built in the 1590′s by Bess of Hardwick, England’s second richest woman. Unchanged since, Hardwick Hall is “More Glass than Wall” and now home to a collection of rich tapestries and amazing plaster work, surrounded by 300 acres of grounds.
The New Hall of Hardwick Hall - "More Glass than Wall"
It was Elizabethan Weekend at Hardwick hall and at the entrance visitors were treated to some musicians:
Click link to Facebook video: Video: Elizabethan Performers at Hardwick Hall [HQ]
Introductory talk by 'Bess of Hardwick' as she welcomes visitors to her home.
View from Hardwick Hall
Hardwick Hall Garden
Hardwick Hall Back Garden
The Dining Room - Piano made by Broadwood dated 1812
The Cut Velvet Bedroom - The bed was made in 1740's and brought to Hardwick hall in 1800s by the Duke of Devonshire.
Carpet under restoration
The Old Hall of Hardwick Hall - Birthplace of Bess of Hardwick
Exterior Remains of Old Hardwick Hall
Looking out from inside the Old Hall
Plaster Overmantel in the Old Hall
Pastry Room bread ovens for baking
View of New Hardwick Hall from Old Hardwick Hall
See more Hardwick Hall, Chesterfield, UK 2010 photos
I have to say that of all my sight-seeing so far this past week, my favorite has to be Hardwick Hall, and specifically, exploring the exterior shell of Old Hardwick Hall.
On the way back to Sheffield, I stopped for a couple hours in Chesterfield Town Centre in order to see for myself its famous “Crooked Spire” of St Mary and All Saints Church. The 228 foot Spire stands on the skyline like a question mark: how did it happen?
The "Crooked Spire" of Chesterfield Parish Church
While in Chesterfield, I look for what would be my last meal before leaving the next morning back to Manchester Airport. Which authentic British favorite food could I have possibly missed so far while in the UK?
Right! Fish and Chips!
I found a Market Place chippy and over a massive piece of fish, I reflected back on my memorable week of meeting old and new friends, Shakespearean Theatre with the extraordinary John Simm and sight-seeing through Derwent Valley Mills World Heritage Site. Looking back at the Derwent Valley link with its map of all the attractions I hadn’t seen yet can only mean one thing, that I’ll just have to come back!
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Next morning I’m on the road by 6 am to Manchester. It’s Sunday and the A57 aka “Snake Pass” is very quiet. I have a serene, relaxing drive all the way to the Hertz car park at Manchester Airport.
It’s still early when I proudly return the Astra to the Hertz-guy, who quickly burst my bubble during his walk-around damage inspection of my Trusty Ride, by pointing out that there’s a nick in the sidewall of one of the tires.
“Seriously?” I think, trying not to bust out laughing while imagining myself saying, “Mr. Hertz-guy, I think we should concern ourselves more with the fact that there’s not a crack in the wheel itself, or bloodstains on the left side of the car…or a dented rear bumper either, since I never got out of the habit of looking over the wrong shoulder every time I reversed the car this past week.”
Better yet, I guess the moment as I was handing over the Astra keys to Mr. Hertz-guy, I should’ve told him I saw John Simm in Hamlet?
So, I arranged for a 1-hour private guided hack/lesson at 
